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Nova Building Co

Interior

Flooring installed flat, and installed to stay flat

Almost every flooring failure is the subfloor it went over, the moisture that was never measured, or a transition nobody planned, so the preparation underneath decides how the floor looks in year five.

  • Solid hardwood, engineered and rigid-core LVP
  • Subfloor flattened to the manufacturer's tolerance
  • Moisture tested: slab, crawlspace and basement
  • Radiant-compatible assemblies where there is in-floor heat
  • NH Seacoast and southern Maine

Hardwood, engineered or LVP

Solid hardwood can be sanded and refinished several times over its life, and it moves with moisture: in a house that swings from thirty percent humidity in February to seventy in August you will see winter gaps that close by June, and it does not belong below grade. Engineered hardwood puts a real wood wear layer over a cross-laminated core that moves far less, which makes it the choice over concrete and radiant heat; the spec that separates two identical-looking boxes is wear-layer thickness, because a thick sawn face can be resanded and a thin peeled veneer cannot.

Rigid-core LVP is waterproof, dimensionally stable and warm underfoot, which makes it the right call for basements, mudrooms where boots come in wet nine months a year, and households with large dogs and small children. When it wears out it gets replaced rather than refinished, and cheap LVP telegraphs every bump in the subfloor because it is thin and flexible.

  • Solid hardwood: above grade, over wood subfloor, when refinishing matters
  • Engineered: over slab, over radiant, in basements, where humidity swings hard
  • LVP: wet rooms, basements, mudrooms, high-abuse floors
  • Wear-layer thickness matters more than species on engineered products

The subfloor is the job

Every flooring manufacturer publishes a flatness tolerance, usually a maximum deviation over a six or ten foot span, and every warranty assumes it was met, which in an old Seacoast house it usually was not. We put a straightedge on the floor and map the highs and lows before quoting the material, because grinding down peaks, filling valleys with self-leveler, and adding a layer of underlayment are meaningfully different amounts of work.

While the subfloor is exposed we screw it off to the joists and deal with any panel that has delaminated, because once the finish floor is down the only access to a squeak is from the basement or through the finish.

Moisture, acclimation and transitions

The material acclimates inside the actual conditioned room, not an unheated garage or a house still full of construction moisture, and on a slab or over a crawlspace we take moisture readings and install a vapor retarder where the reading calls for it. Every wood and floating floor gets a perimeter expansion gap, held at door jambs, hearths, toe kicks and pipe penetrations too, because buckled floors almost always trace back to a gap somebody filled or never left.

Transitions are where flooring meets the rest of the job: hardwood, tile and LVP have different total build-ups, and if nobody adds those numbers before the tile goes down you get a lip at the doorway. On a Nova job the flooring, tile and cabinet build-ups get reconciled on paper while everything is still adjustable, and the same arithmetic decides whether the dishwasher can ever come out again.

Cabinet doors, flooring, tile and countertop samples are out at our showroom in Dover, NH. Visit the showroom

How it goes

How the job runs

  1. 01

    Look at what is under there

    We pull a vent or a threshold, straightedge the floor, check subfloor type and thickness, and take moisture readings. On a renovation we also confirm whether the existing floor is worth saving.

  2. 02

    Match material to the room

    Grade level, moisture, radiant heat, how the room gets used and whether you want to refinish it someday all narrow the list before color does. Then we look at samples in the room's own light.

  3. 03

    Prep, and let the material acclimate

    Subfloor screwed off, high spots ground down, low spots leveled, underlayment or vapor retarder as specified. The flooring sits in the conditioned space until its moisture content is where it belongs.

  4. 04

    Install, transition, trim

    Racked for a natural mix of lengths and color, expansion gaps held at every wall and fixed object, transitions set flush to the neighboring floors, then shoe or base and a final cleanup.

What we install

Materials and brands we work with

  • Solid hardwood: red and white oak, maple, hickory
  • Engineered hardwood
  • Rigid-core LVP and SPC
  • Prefinished and site-finished floors
  • Water-based and oil-based finishes
  • Self-leveling underlayment
  • Vapor retarders and underlayments
  • Radiant-compatible assemblies
  • Stair treads, risers and nosings
  • Flush and reducer transitions

Questions

Straight answers

Should I refinish my existing hardwood or replace it?
Refinish if there is enough wood left above the tongue, the layout is not changing, and there are no patches that will never match; old growth strip flooring in a Seacoast antique is better material than most of what is sold now. Replace when the nails are showing, when removed walls have left scars, or when the floor plan is changing anyway. We can usually tell which it is by looking at a board edge at a vent opening.
Can I put hardwood in my basement?
Not solid hardwood, because a concrete slab moves water vapor upward continuously and solid wood cups or buckles in response. Engineered hardwood over a tested slab with the correct vapor barrier works, and rigid-core LVP works better if the space ever sees actual water. If the slab is damp rather than just cool, the water gets fixed first with grading, gutters and drainage.
My new floor has gaps between the boards in winter. Is it defective?
Usually not. Solid wood shrinks as indoor humidity drops during a New England heating season, and thin, even gaps across a whole floor that close up by June are the material behaving normally. One wide gap in a single place, cupping across board widths, or boards separated year round point to a moisture or acclimation problem worth a look.
Can I put flooring over radiant heat?
Yes, with the right product: engineered hardwood and most rigid-core LVP are rated for radiant, and solid hardwood generally is not. The system also has to be commissioned gradually, with the floor surface held below the flooring manufacturer's temperature limit. We coordinate that with whoever installed the heat rather than finding out in January.
Why do I keep hearing about the subfloor instead of the floor I picked?
Because that is where the failures come from: hollow spots underfoot, planks separating at the ends, LVP showing every ridge in raking light, and squeaks a year later are all subfloor problems wearing a flooring costume. Manufacturers write flatness tolerances into their warranties for exactly this reason. We measure before we quote so the prep is in the number.

Get a real number on your flooring

Send us the details and we'll get you a written estimate, without a sales visit you have to sit through.

Showroom in Dover, NH · Serving the New Hampshire Seacoast and southern Maine

Call (603) 522-7006